Wool electronics and orange peel clothing being created in Bioinnovation Center
Speeding up commercialisation
‘My research isn’t about developing new technologies; it’s about helping others bring their inventions from the lab to the market faster. I use environmental assessment methods to ensure both the economic viability and environmental impact of a technology. This way, potential issues can be identified and solved as early as possible, increasing the speed of scaling up and the chances of success.
My dissertation focuses on textiles. Since the beginning of the millennium, global textile production has doubled, reaching 128 million tons per year. The majority are made from oil-based synthetic fibers or cotton, which requires vast amounts of water, farmland, and chemicals to grow. This is unsustainable for the planet, creating a strong demand for new solutions.
I’m part of a large collaboration project with 15 partners searching for new raw materials for textile fiber production. Right now, we’re studying how cellulose from orange peels performs in textile fibers and final products. Using recycled materials reduces the need for virgin raw materials, but that alone isn’t enough – we need to assess functionality and environmental impact across the entire lifecycle, from raw material sourcing to recycling.
At the Bioinnovation Center, we have regular meetings where doctoral researchers from different fields share knowledge and ideas. It’s both inspiring and educational – designers, for example, have valuable insights into user needs. My supervisor, Professor Luana Dessbesell, provides support but also gives me both authority and responsibility – after all, my dissertation is my own creation, my baby.
That said, I’m not doing this research for myself. I’d be thrilled if my work helps other researchers and, in doing so, contributes to building a more sustainable future.’
Maria Real de Almeida, doctoral researcher
Making the most of milk cartons
‘I'm working on my PhD as part of the Sereplas project, a collaboration between the Bioinnovation Center, Valmet and Stora Enso. Our goal is to develop new, energy-efficient solutions for recycling liquid packaging boards, such as milk and juice cartons.
In Finland, these cartons are currently recycled alongside other cardboard, which is a missed opportunity. The carton itself is made of high-quality, virgin, bleached cellulose fiber. However, the polyethylene plastic layers on both sides often end up being incinerated. With new EU regulations pushing for better plastic recycling, this project is both timely and highly relevant for companies.
To make the plastic in cartons suitable for recycling, it must be completely free of cellulose fibers. This means that the carton and plastic need to be separated as precisely as possible, while also recovering high-quality fiber. The separation happens in a device called a pulper. However, the plastic and additives prolong the pulping process, increasing energy consumption – a challenge both economically and environmentally.
We’ve been exploring ways to reduce processing time and, consequently, energy use through pre-treatment methods. Techniques such as pressure-assisted pre-wetting and perforation have shown promising results. The next step is figuring out how to scale them up for industrial use.
The Bioinnovation Center is a unique place for a researcher, offering expertise from various fields and valuable new connections. Lately, I’ve found myself entertaining a bold new dream – becoming an entrepreneur. I’d love to develop machines that make it possible to scale up the methods I’m researching. I believe recycling challenges can be solved through technical innovations, and as an entrepreneur, I’d have both the freedom and independence to create them – and a huge opportunity to make an impact.’
Emilia Kauppi, doctoral researcher
Smart textiles that benefit both people and the environment
‘I develop new biodegradable materials for smart textiles to replace the metals and plastics traditionally used in their electronics.
Smart textiles can have various functionalities, but my focus is on sensors. These sensors can detect touch or temperature and respond in different ways – through lights, sounds, or vibrations. For example, a dancer could create music with their smart textile costume.
Technology is often perceived as cold and complicated, something that only large tech giants far away can manufacture. I don’t think it has to be that way. For instance, I have woven a keyboard from wool and cellulose fiber. It allows users to create various graphic elements on a screen, and it can be not only pressed but also bent and squeezed. The keyboard was showcased at Dutch Design Week, one of Europe’s largest design events. I enjoyed observing visitors’ reactions from a distance. The keyboard held up well, and older people, in particular, were excited about it.
I believe the first practical applications of our work will be in areas where people’s vital signs are already closely monitored, such as healthcare. Many current measuring devices are expensive or disposable. Wouldn’t it be great if they were beautiful, affordable and compostable?
I’m a designer passionate about technology, and I’ve always eagerly joined multidisciplinary projects. At the Bioinnovation Center, I work closely with a doctoral researcher in chemical engineering. My dissertation supervisor is a professor of design, but I also have advisors from electrical engineering, engineering sciences and artificial intelligence. The atmosphere is inspiring and encouraging – I almost feel spoiled to be working in such a wonderful environment.
After completing my PhD, I dream of having my own studio where I can experiment with experts from various fields, from artists to healthcare professionals. I would also love to collaborate more in my home country, Chile, which has a rich textile tradition and an abundance of fascinating materials to explore.’
Sofia Guridi Sotomayor, doctoral researcher
What is the Bioinnovation Center?
- Aalto University Bioinnovation Center was established in 2021 with a €10.5 million grant from the Jane and Aatos Erkko Foundation. The centre's goal is to accelerate the transition to a circular and bioeconomy and create opportunities for sustainable economic growth in Finland.
- The research focuses on textiles and packaging, with 14 ongoing doctoral research projects.
- At the heart of the Bioinnovation Center is a multidisciplinary doctoral school and its professor, Luana Dessbesell. The centre is directed by Professor Michael Hummel, with a steering group that includes professors from all six Aalto University schools.
- In recent years, the centre has also secured significant external funding. One of the largest grants was awarded to the SciSustain project, led by Luana Dessbesell, which aims to develop and accelerate the commercialization of scientific bio-based innovations. The project has a budget of €1.2 million and is funded by Business Finland and industry partners, including Valmet, Paptic, LignEasy, Stora Enso, Boreal Bioproducts, UPM and Metsä. Accelerating research breakthroughs also requires investment in research infrastructure. The Bioinnovation Center has supported the construction of a pilot production line for Ioncell, an ecological textile fiber technology. This year, the centre is investing in a biodegradation laboratory.
- Societal impact is a key part of the Bioinnovation Center’s mission. One of the highlights of 2024 was the widely publicised Mainiot Materiaalit (Magnificent materials) book, which encourages children and young people to experiment with materials. An English-language version of the book will be published this year. Researchers from the centre also showcase their work at various exhibitions and events, including Designs for a Cooler Planet, which will take place again this autumn at the Marsio building on Aalto University’s Otaniemi campus.
Aalto University Bioinnovation Center
To achieve human wellbeing in planetary boundaries, we need new sustainable solutions to wisely use our natural resources. The Bioinnovation Center especially focuses on innovations in sustainable bio-based materials, with special focus on textiles and packaging.
This article has been published in the (issuu.com), May 2025.
Read more news
A revolution for R&D with the missing link of machine learning — project envisions human-AI expert teams to solve grand challenges
Samuel Kaski receives ERC Advanced Grant to develop new machine learning that is robust, generalisable and engages human experts.
Aalto University Furniture Program is exhibiting at 3daysofdesign in Copenhagen
3 Days of Design, the Copenhagen-based festival, is taking place from 18 to 20 June 2025.
School of Business researchers have shared their expertise in top-tier media outlets
Over the Spring (March-May) of 2025, the School of Business featured in several publications reaching more than 270,000 views from a massive global audience